Skip to content
SUMMITLOG
Start a log
Routes / Arizona / Buttes / O'Neill Butte / Northeast Chimney
Route SL-R-025860 · OpenBeta · trad

Northeast Chimney

Trad
Grade
5.9 YDS
Only systems recorded for this route are shown · conversions are approximate at grade boundaries

Description

**AKA Dangling Legs?** This route seemed to have a tougher overhanging crack crux than the East Face route, so peradventure it may start collecting more bail gear then that route had?! Starts up a slab with a somewhat tricky move to get established in a nice dihedral. At the ledge pod, tread carefully before splitting the overhang, then mostly solid chimneying until some easy face climbing near the top. Save a few medium cams for your belay. It's an easy hike west to the summit from there.

Protection

Style
Natural gear
Bolts
Length

Perhaps a rack and a half. A #4 and #5 were helpful. Rapping from the dead tree is silly and all of the tatapus has been removed from its base. There's a **40m** [rap anchor](https://openbeta.io/gallery/e0900a1b-1712-48dd-a2ab-9030171e56d3/modal/691bd577fce6f634283bc378?type=climb) directly above the East Face route, but one must scrupulously downclimb to a good ledge to access it.

Between the East Face and North Face routes at the northeast corner of the butte.