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Routes / Colorado / Colorado Springs / Blodgett Peak / Broken Ambience
Route SL-R-083925 · OpenBeta · trad

Broken Ambience

Trad Safety · UNSPECIFIED
Grade
5a French
YDS
5.7
Only systems recorded for this route are shown · conversions are approximate at grade boundaries

Description

This climb slowly (and literally) ramps up throwing fun easy/moderate climbing at you along the way. Start up an easy short and wide corner onto the low angle slab. Follow cracks slight left to a small roof near the arete. Turn the arete, and locate 2 parallel 5.7 hand cracks. Follow these through some amazing flakes, and finish at the small pine growing horizontally out of the face that provides a semi-hanging belay. We slung it and left webbing and a couple biners for a first pitch due to nightfall.

First ascent

Alex Hesler & Jared King, 6/10/19
Source · OpenBeta

Protection

Style
Natural gear
Bolts
Length

A 60m rope should make it down from the tree. Bring a single rack to a #3 and maybe a few stoppers. Include three or four long slings and maybe some new sling or webbing and biners for the anchor tree on the face. While this line seemed pretty clean overall, a helmet should be worn, since this crag sees such little traffic, and loose rock abounds.

Hike up into the valley below the peak until you see a talus boulder jumble leading northwest toward the summit. Follow this until you reach the obvious large south/east-facing ridge. This is located on the left side of the east face before the cliff turns and faces south. Scramble up to a flat belay area just below the corner/arete on the east side. Start at a small constriction/short wide crack leading up to low angle slabs and the arete above and on the left.