Shangri-La
Description
pitch 1, starting in saddle between Rabbit/Bear climb 110' pitch of 5.10a with a move of A.0, or a couple moves of aid to make the climbing about 5.8 C.1. pitch 2, 100', 5.7+ climbing ends at good ledge with two bolts pitch 3, 5.9+ LB, 70' ends at ledge just left of the 3rd pitch. pitch 4, The hardest climbing I've ever done, it felt like 5.12+X- but essentially is a scree slope in a chimney with stacked rocks that only connect to one side of wall! (Bjornstad said of this pitch, "a long gully/chimney (very rotten) was climbed")- I think the correct term was swam. Watch for rope drag. pitch 5 40', is gravy and leads to middle of summit.
First ascent
Protection
standard desert rack, hammer + hexes helpful on pitch 3.
near the outer boundary of the Tribal Park. Rock Climbing is illegal here. Shangri-La looks like a rectangular block stood on its end.