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Routes / Arizona / Stewart Pocket / John Rae Dome / Spooling Voodoo
Route SL-R-016805 · OpenBeta · sport, trad

Spooling Voodoo

Sport Trad 35 m Safety · R
Grade
7a+ French
YDS
5.12-
Only systems recorded for this route are shown · conversions are approximate at grade boundaries

Description

Conceivably try this one on a very cold morning with fingers taped and new shoe rubber... and lots of chalk? Mount thin face by stepping off large boulder and climb past two bolts. From second flexy clip, transition face into right-angling seam that slightly widens to fingers and then eventually peters out. At the dwindle, ascend thin face between crack systems and then do a balancy traverse right into the large prominent groove on the southwest face of the dome. It's easy climbing to the end of the dihedral. There's two more bolts angling left on the final upper face. A good pro belay at the top of the groove is possible if one decides to split the climb into two pitches.

First ascent

Tomasi
Source · OpenBeta

Protection

Style
Bolted
Bolts
Length
35 m

Single set of cams. Six bolts; four on route and two for belay at top. Single line rap from top out anchors.

Starts to the right of Third Shift on John Rae Dome's west face.