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Routes / Arizona / Superstition Mountains / Twilight Pinnacle / The Deviate Direct
Route SL-R-014509 · OpenBeta · trad

The Deviate Direct

Trad 61 m Safety · UNSPECIFIED
Grade
5b French
YDS
5.8
Only systems recorded for this route are shown · conversions are approximate at grade boundaries

Description

**P1**: Face with some loose flakes (5.6) to shallow bowl and crack. Follow crack through another bowl, slightly angling right over loose rock following smaller crack to base of overhang. Crack continues over two bulges then traverse right, stemming faces, another short face to access ledge and belay. **P2**: Angle right, then left across easy face around corner, up broken face, past shallow vertical crack. Traverse left, cam horizontal crack, clip bolt, then up steep face (5.8) using several small depressions and thin crack. Grade continues through some horizontal cracks with shelves and large blocky section with vertical cracks to boulder belay.

First ascent

Larry Treiber & Barbara Zinn.
Source · OpenBeta

Protection

Style
Natural gear
Bolts
Length
61 m

Cams, tricams, nuts. One old, rusty Leeper at crux. Downclimb gully/faces (cl.3) on eastside to piton/bolt single line rappel.

South face, Left of Palo Verde tree.