Middle Teton
Description
WikipediaMiddle Teton (12,809 feet (3,904 m)) is the third-highest peak in the Teton Range, in the U.S. state of Wyoming. Located within Grand Teton National Park, the peak is immediately southwest of Grand Teton, from which it is separated by a broad high ridge at 11,600 feet (3,540 m), known to local climbers as the Lower Saddle. The Middle Teton Glacier is located on the eastern slopes of the peak. Middle Teton is a classic pyramidal alpine peak and is sometimes included as part of the Cathedral Group of high Teton peaks. The 40-mile-long (64 km) Teton Range is the youngest mountain chain in the Rocky Mountains, beginning its uplift 9 million years ago, during the Miocene. Several periods of glaciation have carved Middle Teton and the other peaks of the range into their current shapes. From the Lower Saddle, a distinctive feature known as the black dike appears as a straight line running from near the top of the mountain down 800 feet (240 m). The black dike is a basaltic intrusion that occurred long after the surrounding rock was formed.
First ascent
Best months
Hiking score 0–100 · 10-yr climate averagesNeighbouring summits
| Name | Elevation | Bearing | Distance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bonney Pinnacle | 3,774 m | N 3° | 0.2 km |
| Dike Pinnacle | 3,792 m | SE 114° | 0.2 km |
| Pinnochio Pinnacle | 3,719 m | N 3° | 0.2 km |
| Glencoe Spire | 3,767 m | NE 42° | 1.0 km |
| Teepe Pillar | 3,739 m | NE 51° | 1.1 km |
| Gilkey Tower | 3,767 m | S 191° | 1.2 km |
Climbing routes
nearest first| Route | Area | Grade | From summit |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Ridge | Middle Teton | 4b | 1 m |
| Ellingwood Couloir | Middle Teton | 4b | 1 m |
| Beyer South Ridge | Middle Teton | 6b | 1 m |
| Northwest Ice Couloir | Middle Teton | 4c | 1 m |
| Middle Teton Glacier Route | Middle Teton | 4b | 1 m |
| Buckingham (SE) Ridge | Middle Teton | 5a | 1 m |
| Dike route | Middle Teton | 4c | 1 m |
| South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton | Middle Teton | 5c | 1 m |
| Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face | Middle Teton | 1 | 1 m |
| Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge | Middle Teton | 1 | 1 m |
| Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega-Motter on Han's Wall | Middle Teton | 8a | 1 m |
| Dike Pinnacle North Face | Middle Teton | 5c | 1 m |
| Chouinard Ridge | Middle Teton | 1+ | 1 m |
| Southwest Couloir | Middle Teton | 1- | 1 m |
| West Face | Teepe Pillar | 4a | 1.1 km |
| D is for Dizzle | Teepe Pillar | 6c+ | 1.1 km |
| East Face (Direct East Face) Opp-Hennessy Howe-Keith | Teepe Pillar | 5a | 1.1 km |
| Silver Lining | Cloudveil Dome | 6b | 1.3 km |
| Armed Robbery | Cloudveil Dome | 5c | 1.3 km |
| East Ridge | Cloudveil Dome | 1 | 1.3 km |
| Kitchen Rock -Original -Center | Watchtower, The | V8 | 1.3 km |
| Bunny Luv | Watchtower, The | 6b+ | 1.3 km |
| The Big Guy | Watchtower, The | 6c+ | 1.3 km |
| Corkscrew | Watchtower, The | 5b | 1.3 km |
| Good Over Evil | Watchtower, The | 7c+ | 1.3 km |