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North America / United States / Washington / Sloan Peak
Record SL-669027 · Wikidata Q3486736

Sloan Peak

No list classifications
Elevation
2,388 m
7,835 ft
Prominence
Isolation
Coordinates
48.0415° N, 121.3401° W
Grid ref
Sloan Peak
Sloan PeakWikimedia Commons

Description

Wikipedia

Sloan Peak is a 7,835-foot (2,388-metre) mountain in the North Cascades of Washington state. It rises about 40 miles (64 km) east of Everett, Washington and 12 miles southwest of Glacier Peak, one of the Cascade stratovolcanoes. It is located between the north and south forks of Sauk River, in the Mount Baker–Snoqualmie National Forest. The summit is situated about 4 miles (6.4 km) east of the Mountain Loop Highway. Sloan Peak has been called the "Matterhorn of the Cascades" for its sharp, high peak, which is accentuated by its impressive local relief and its isolated position west of the Cascade crest. It is easily visible from many locations in the North Cascades. On both the east and southwest sides, Sloan's summit rises more than one vertical mile (1.6 km) above the valley floor in less than two horizontal miles (3.2 km). The standard route on the peak climbs the South Face and Upper West Face, but it is also known as the "Corkscrew Route" due to its winding nature. It starts on the north side of the peak, and traverses the Sloan Glacier to reach the east edge of the South Face; the route then continues to turn around the peak to reach the summit via the Upper West Face. The usual approach is via Forest Service Road No. 48 and Forest Service Trail No. 649. The trail crosses the North Fork of the Sauk River, and no bridge is provided, although a log may be present. The total elevation gain of the route is 5,935 feet (1,809 m). It involves snow and glacier climbing and some rock scrambling (class 3). Other more technical routes exist on Sloan's other faces.

First ascent

Date
30 Jul 1921
Harry Bedal, Nels Skaar
Source · wikipedia

Best months

Rows beneath each bar: mean temperature, monthly precipitation. Highest-scoring month in red.

Neighbouring summits

Name Elevation Bearing Distance
Bedal Peak 1,980 m N 342° 3.2 km

Climbing routes

nearest first
Route Area Grade From summit
Northwest Buttress Sloan Peak 5c 1 m
Corkscrew Route Sloan Peak 1- 1 m
Diamond In The Rough Sloan Peak 6c 1 m
Bedal Juice Bedal Basin (Bedal Boulder) V0-1 3.5 km
Sloan Groan Bedal Basin (Bedal Boulder) V1 3.5 km
Safety Fourth Bedal Basin (Bedal Boulder) V2 3.5 km
(Scree)min' Demon Bedal Basin (Bedal Boulder) V0-1 3.5 km
Blizzard Fats Boulder V3 6.1 km
Kuba's Vaginal Arete Kuba Slab Cluster V0-1 6.1 km
Frostbite Fats Boulder V4 6.1 km
Precipitation Fats Boulder V3-4 6.1 km
South Bound Pachyderm Highball with the Devil Boulder V4 6.1 km
Lumberjizz Highball with the Devil Boulder V1 6.1 km
Slabby Seconds Highball with the Devil Boulder V1 6.1 km
Holy Mackerel Highball with the Devil Boulder V3 6.1 km
Grannies Little Yard Gnomes Highball with the Devil Boulder V1 6.1 km
Highball with the Devil Highball with the Devil Boulder V3 6.1 km
Down Climb Highball with the Devil Boulder V0-1 6.1 km
Butterflies and Sunshine Kuba Slab Cluster V0+ 6.1 km
Michal's Wizard Sleeve Kuba Slab Cluster V2 6.1 km
Mosstrosity Kuba Slab Cluster V1 6.1 km
Ryan's Anal Beads Kuba Slab Cluster V0-1 6.1 km
Renegade Fats Boulder V1 6.1 km
My Friend Fats Fats Boulder V4 6.1 km
Purple Onion Fats Boulder V0 6.1 km