Johannesburg Mountain
Description
WikipediaJohannesburg Mountain is one of the most famous peaks in the North Cascades of Washington state. Though not one of the top 100 peaks in the state by elevation, nor one of the top peaks as ranked by topographic prominence, Johannesburg is notable for its large, steep local relief, and particularly its immense, dramatic Northeast Face, which drops 5,000 feet (1,525 m) in only 0.9 miles (1.4 km). The name "Johannesburg Mountain" comes, through an error, from "Johnsberg," the name of three mining claims on the north face of the peak. It has also been called "Elsbeth." Johannesburg Mountain was first climbed on July 26, 1938, by Calder Bressler, Bill Cox, Ray W. Clough, and Tom Myers, via a version of the most popular route today, the East Ridge/Cascade-Johannesburg Couloir Route. This route, and others which also finish on the south side of the mountain, are mostly scrambling routes. However, there are many routes on the north and northeast faces which are highly technical and involve considerable objective danger from falling rock and ice.
First ascent
Best months
Hiking score 0–100 · 10-yr climate averagesNeighbouring summits
| Name | Elevation | Bearing | Distance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cascade Peak | 2,250 m | E 100° | 0.9 km |
| The Triplets | 2,159 m | E 105° | 1.4 km |
| Mix-up Peak | 2,204 m | SE 118° | 2.6 km |
| Cache Col | 2,104 m | SE 122° | 3.4 km |
| Magic Mountain | 2,298 m | SE 120° | 4.3 km |
| Pelton Peak | 2,156 m | E 112° | 4.7 km |
Climbing routes
nearest first| Route | Area | Grade | From summit |
|---|---|---|---|
| East Face | Mix Up Peak | 1+ | 2.6 km |
| Quien Sabe Glacier | Sahale Peak | 1 | 4.9 km |
| Sahale Glacier | Sahale Peak | 2- | 4.9 km |
| South Ridge | Aiguille de l'M | 4c | 5.0 km |
| North Ridge | Aiguille de l'M | 1 | 5.0 km |
| Northwest Ridge | Boston Peak | 4b | 5.3 km |
| Torment-Forbidden Traverse | Mount Torment | 4c | 5.4 km |
| South Ridge | Mount Torment | 4a | 5.4 km |
| Southeast Face | Sharkfin Tower | 6a | 5.5 km |
| Southeast Ridge | Sharkfin Tower | 2- | 5.5 km |
| Northeast Buttress | Johannesberg Mountain | 1+ | 5.5 km |
| Northeast Ridge (1963 Route) | Johannesberg Mountain | 5a | 5.5 km |
| Northeast Face Direct | Mt. Formidable | 4c | 5.7 km |
| East Ridge Direct | Forbidden Peak | 5b | 5.8 km |
| Northwest Face | Forbidden Peak | 5b | 5.8 km |
| West Ridge | Forbidden Peak | 4c | 5.8 km |
| North Ridge | Forbidden Peak | 4c | 5.8 km |
| East Ridge | Dorado Needle | 5a | 8.7 km |
| Tepeh Towers | Main Peak | 2- | 8.7 km |
| Klawatti Peak SW Buttress | Main Peak | 3+ | 8.7 km |
| Northwest Ridge | Dorado Needle | 4a | 8.7 km |
| Direct Southwest Buttress | Dorado Needle | 6a | 8.7 km |
| Southwest Buttress | Dorado Needle | 5b | 8.7 km |
| South Ridge | Main Peak | 4c | 8.7 km |
| Austera Peak | Main Peak | 1+ | 8.7 km |