Kanjut Sar I

Kanjut Sar (Urdu: کنجوت سر) is a mountain located between Shimshal Valley and Hisper Valley in the Karakoram mountain range. It is the 28th-highest mountain in the world. Kanjut is the native name of the Hunza valley while Sar means mountain peak in Burushaski. Kanjut Sar consists of two peaks: Kanjut Sar I at 7,760 metres (25,459 ft). Kanjut Sar II, to the southeast of I, at 6,831 m (22,411 ft). Kanjut Sar I was first climbed in 1959 by Camillo Pellissier, member of an Italian expedition directed by Guido Monzino. From 4 to 6 August 1981, seven Japanese climbers of the same expedition climbed to the top. The first ascent of Kanjut Sar II was achieved by a Swiss team in 1985. Expedition leader Toni Spirig, Ueli Stahel and Richie Ott finally carried it out in alpine style after several attempts . The climbers reached the summit on July 10. The ascent route led over the north-west side. On July 29, 1990, a Dutch expedition made the second ascent of Kanjut Sar II in alpine style via the south face. Expedition members were Peter Kok, Frank Schmidt, Franck van den Barselaer, Hendrik Freie and Pieter de Kam.

First ascent